BIT OF HISTORY ON SURFING
Surfing is indeed a diverse and ancient practice that has been a part of various cultures around the world for millennia. Each of these cultures has its own unique history and traditions related to surfing. Here's a brief overview of surfing in some of the regions you mentioned:
Hawaii: Hawaii is often considered the modern birthplace of surfing. Ancient Hawaiians practiced a form of surfing known as "he'e nalu," which involved riding wooden boards. Surfing was not only a recreational activity but also had significant cultural and spiritual significance in Hawaiian society.
Japan: Japan has a history of surfing that dates back to at least 2000 B.C. The Japanese also used wooden boards, and there is a connection between Japanese culture and the art of wave riding. However, it didn't gain widespread popularity in Japan until the 20th century.
Africa: Various coastal regions in Africa have their own traditions of wave riding. In some areas, people used wooden boards or even reed mats to surf on the ocean. Surfing in Africa has a rich and diverse history that is often less well-documented than other regions.
Samoa: Samoa, like many Polynesian cultures, has a long history of wave riding. The Samoans used wooden boards similar to those used in Hawaii and were skilled in various water activities. Surfing is an integral part of their maritime culture.
Australia: Indigenous Australians have a deep connection to the ocean and have practiced wave riding for thousands of years. They used a variety of watercraft, including wooden boards and bark canoes, for surfing. The modern surf culture in Australia has roots in these ancient practices.
New Guinea: In Papua New Guinea, indigenous communities have engaged in various forms of wave riding and canoe surfing. The practice often differs among different ethnic groups in the region, but surfing has been a part of their coastal cultures for 100s of generations.
These few examples demonstrate that surfing, in various forms, has been an integral part of coastal cultures around the world for a very long time. While the modern image of surfing is often associated with Western culture and Polystyrene foam boards, it's important to recognize and respect the rich and diverse history of wave riding on wood in different parts of the world.